HOW TO BUILD A WOODEN GREENHOUSE FOR DINAMITEK

WITH DINAMITEK YOU CAN BUILD A GREENHOUSE FOR THE WINTER

Building a wooden greenhouse is very useful for protecting ornamental plants and vegetable seedlings during the winter.
To build a wooden greenhouse, you'll need the following power tools: a drill/driver, miter saw, staple gun, and circular saw. To make construction easier, the windows won't be made of glass. With a sturdy, UV-resistant plastic sheet, you can achieve the same result without much effort.

HERE IS OUR ENTIRE RANGE OF TOOLS AND POWER TOOLS

Here is the material needed to complete the project:

Hardware:
12 plates 70×170 mm;
22 plates 40×120 mm;
8 hinges 35×90 mm (measured open);
screws 4×20-4×30-4×40-5×80 mm;
1.8×35 mm nails;
5 hinges 70×170 mm for doors and windows;
3 hooks 300 mm long with eyelets;
1 external door handle;
2 rotating handles for door (external) and window (internal) locking.

45×45 mm strips:
8 horizontal slats of 2000 mm which serve to create the skeleton of the walls;
16 vertical slats of 1790 mm to create the windows;
14 x 606mm crosspieces to create the wall under the window and the skylight structure;
2 door jambs of 1780 mm,
2 window mullions of 1330 mm,
2 x 506mm window crosspieces,
4 corner posts of 1880 mm;
4 2090 mm slats with 45° cut ends as they are needed to fit the structure together

45×95 mm boards:
3 door crosspieces of 506 mm

20×45 mm strips:
1 door stop of 1790 mm;
2 stops for the 1370 mm window;

20×20 mm strips:
22 vertical elements of 405 mm for internal finishing of blind mirrors.

10×45 mm strips:
approximately 60 metres of retaining elements obtainable from 95x45 mm beams

Transparent sheet:
approximately 14 metres, ideal width 1370 mm to cover the entire greenhouse.

20×95 mm boards: 44 elements of 606 mm mm;

4 bases for 2175 mm roofing elements;

8 beams of 1535 mm;

20×45 mm strips:
8 crosspieces of 670 mm

Once the material has been obtained, all that remains is to proceed.

First, you need to mark the main slats, the two-meter ones. Once they're placed side by side and aligned, you need to trace the dimensions of the 1790 mm uprights to know exactly where they'll be inserted.
Essentially, the layout of each side of the greenhouse is as follows: the height is 1880 mm, with a two-meter slat forming the horizontal side. Three 1330 x 506 mm elements are inserted along the width as if they were windows. The final part of the element is composed of a row of 606 mm slats. Between the window and the row of slats is a 606 mm crosspiece that acts as a "glue."
Returning to the two-meter strips, drill pairs of diagonal holes in each, at the height of the uprights. Use a drill driver with a 5 mm diameter bit for this operation. You'll also need two pairs of intermediate holes and two pairs of holes at the ends.

THE DRILL DRIVER IS AVAILABLE HERE

Now you need to start positioning the external frame of each wall with the 5x80 screws already inserted. Placing these strips on sawhorses will provide the ideal position.
The screws will need to be tightened, but first it is a good idea to clamp the strips together to ensure they remain perfectly flush during assembly.

Now it's time to start attaching the internal crosspieces, the 606 mm ones. They are positioned 405 mm from the base element. To secure them, use screws from the outside. These are the intermediate crosspieces. To complete the structure, the central uprights are needed. Using the same measurements as before, secure the new elements using 40x120 mm plates. The plates are screwed in from the inside, near the uprights. Use 4x30 mm screws.
This structure involves three of the four walls. For the last one, we need to proceed differently because we need to insert the door. In this case, only the intermediate crosspieces are inserted, so you can use pairs of screws from the outside for fastening.
On the side of the lower panel mirror, screw the 20x20x405 mm strips to the uprights, aligning them with the inside of the uprights themselves. This provides a base for inserting the 20x95 x 606 mm boards. Work precisely and space them equidistantly to fill the available space. These are simply secured with 1.8x35 mm nails, inserting them at an angle for optimal grip.

Now we need to focus on building the door, the central element of the last wall.
The length of the 506 mm (45x95 mm) door crosspieces is obtained by subtracting the sum of the thickness of the door jambs plus 10 mm from the actual span; the same reasoning applies to determining the length of the door jambs and for the construction of the window.
The lower part of the door is not made blind by inserting the panels; instead, an additional window remains, breaking up the repetitiveness of the perimeter frames. The door and window will be the last elements to be assembled into the entire construction.
Now that the entire base is ready, we need to focus on building the roof slopes.
We want to build four triangular frames, positioned at a 30-degree angle. To achieve this angle, we can use a simple trick. We also place the slats crossed on trestles. A strip is attached to the 2175 mm base slat in the center, which allows it to cross the 1535 mm slat, rotated with a compass. This crossing creates a central height of 1255 mm. Now we can mark the cuts at the ends.
Now you need to chamfer the reinforcements at the top end, using 20x45 mm strips measuring 670 mm long. This is also the time to prepare the metal plates to connect the pieces. These plates are secured with 4x20 mm screws. The joints will be made more stable by adding 5x80 mm screws inserted through the edges.
Being precise at this stage is essential, which is why the first quarter must serve as a template for making the other three layers.
Now all the base and roof elements are ready. Finally, you'll also need several retaining strips; to save money, you can make them by cutting the 94x45 mm joists in sequence. To do this, you'll need a circular saw.
The retaining strips are just a replica, but on the outside, the perimeter strips and all the reinforcements must be made to measure.
Now that everything is ready, before assembly, it's time to finish it off. Colored enamel is perfect for this purpose; two coats are best.
Once everything is dry, secure the nylon sheet to all the elements. Once in place, secure it with a stapler.

THE STAPLER IS AVAILABLE HERE

The strips are fixed to all uprights and secured with nails. Always work from the perimeter first, then from the center. Any excess fabric from the outer edge can be easily trimmed with a utility knife.
Now it's time to assemble the structure.
To assemble the roof frames, 8 35x90 mm hinges are used.
To avoid mistakes, proceed as follows: place the frames on the floor in the exact position. Screw two hinges onto one of the slanted sides, but do not secure them. Always use the same side of the frames, whether the right or left.
The butt hinges are attached with 4x20 mm screws. Be careful to position them so that the central pin remains on the joint between the frames.

Now we need to start building the walls. Raise the first one and hold it upright with a prop secured with a clamp. Place the second one next to it and check whether any unevenness in the supporting surface needs to be compensated for.
The corner posts should be left longer and trimmed to size only at the end. They are secured with 5x80 mm screws. To secure the side panels, if necessary, use temporary shims to achieve the correct height and allow for screwing. Tighten only after ensuring everything is square and plumb. Proceed until all four sides of the structure are fitted. The excess post length is then cut flush with the top of the panels. Using metal corner plates and expansion bolts, the structure is secured to the flooring.
Before inserting the anchor, it's a good idea to clean the hole thoroughly. Fix the floor first, then the side facing the structure.
Now we need to assemble the roof. You'll need four 2090 mm slats, which can be obtained by cutting the 45x45 mm joists crosswise. Simply set the circular saw blade to a 30-degree angle. This cut is very important; it must be made so that both slats form a molding. The ends should be chamfered at 45 degrees. It should look like a frame. Obviously, these elements also require finishing before assembly.
These 4 slats are assembled at the top of the panels. Pre-drill holes and countersink the heads to allow for screw fastening.

THE CIRCULAR SAW IS AVAILABLE HERE

Start by attaching the first frame, securing it with the 5x60 mm screws. Raise it until the top reaches a height of 2470 mm, screwing it to a post provided. Once the frame is in the correct position, you can tighten the screws securing it to the panel underneath. Proceed in the same way for the second frame, remembering to go inside and complete the hinge connection before tightening. The central post is used to allow for assembly in the exact position.
Once the triangular frames are tightened, 10x45 mm strips, the same ones used for the canvas clips, are used to cover the joints from the outside. These are secured with 4x40 screws, which must engage first in one frame and then in another. These strips are left long and are finished only after the screws are tightened, ensuring they are perfectly sized even if tightening causes a few millimeters of movement.

The hard work is done! Now it's time to insert the door and the overhead window.
Attach a 5 mm thick plywood strip to the base of the door, creating the space needed between the frame and the door. Place the door centered in the available space and secure it with the wedges. Now you can screw in the hinges with the 4x20 screws. You can remove the wedges and the plywood. Now it's time to check the door's movement. At the appropriate height, screw in a handle to make the door easier to use. Use the same technique to insert the side window. In this case, the pair of hinges should be placed on the outside, facing upward.
If you want to control the door's opening, you can add a hook with an eyelet to the outside of the side jamb to provide a practical door stop. The same can be done for the window. If you need to lock it from the outside, simply add a small rotating handle to the top corner.
If you plan to grow climbing plants, attach a steel cable to the inside of the greenhouse at the top. This structure also allows for shelves and racks for displaying potted plants. You can also create a wall of aromatic plants to create a sort of sensory path. Be careful not to overwhelm the structure with weight.

HERE IS OUR ENTIRE RANGE OF TOOLS AND POWER TOOLS

Now all you have to do is have fun setting up your greenhouse with Dinamitek